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After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

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Lisa Messinger

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Elect Yourself Culinary Strategist of Your own Busy Kitchen Cabinet

With both the Democratic and Republican National Conventions looming, have you had your fill of political “strategists?” Avid television watchers see the talking heads about 23.5 hours a day discussing everything from Sen. John McCain's alleged temper to whether Sen. Barack Obama is too skinny.

If you are just as enthusiastic a cook as you are a political junkie — and at least as busy as either candidate with your own hectic work and home schedules — I'd like to introduce a bill on the (kitchen) floor and make a motion to consider turning yourself into a culinary strategist for your own busy kitchen cabinet.

Recently, in an article about political strategists, Ed Rollins, who has held just that title in many political campaigns, noted what he thought were the most important qualities for bona-fide pros. I couldn't help but think that similar characteristics would help time-crunched cooks, too.

— Be an astute analyst. Don't be swayed by the latest fad recipes with many bells and whistles.

— Leave flash for acceptance speeches. Instead, dig deep and uncover tried-and-true fare that really works. A great example is the 1887 White House Brown Bread adapted from “The White House Cook Book” published that year as well as featured in the adorable “Politics & Pot Roast” by Sarah Hood Salomon and illustrated with political cartoons by Glenn Foden (Bright Sky, $24.95).

The White House Brown Bread takes a bit longer to make than some of today's recipes; it steams for 2.5 hours. But analysis shows there's barely any work during steam time and it adds incredible moisture to the loaf. Compared to lightweight modern breads, it has everything a healthy family ticket could want: cornmeal, rye flour and whole-wheat.

— Be decisive. Don't flip-flop or hedge. When in the supermarket, come armed with an organized list and stick to it. Don't let screaming kid constituents sway your vote toward sugar-topped cereal when it was oatmeal you wanted.

— Be persuasive and articulate. Try this strategy on picky eaters. If you were writing a speech for the dynamic Obama, just what would he say about brussels sprouts or flaxseeds or tofu? “We were once a nation built on sound nutrition and hard bodies. No more. We must unite, step up to the challenges and feast on these issues together!”

— Finally, keep it simple, Stupid. This famed Democrat line stolen from a football coach was the kind of strategy that won elections. Don't make food more difficult and fancier than it needs to be — stay seasonal and ultra-fresh.

Consider, for instance, the grilled Citrus-Glazed Salmon served to the entire Kennedy clan at matriarch Rose's 100th birthday summer luncheon at the Cape Cod compound. A whole orange and just-squeezed juice were its hallmarks, but simple doesn't mean plain.
Other memorable touches included chopped pickled ginger and more than a sip of Grand Marnier — which can help sway opinion in your direction.

KENNEDY COMPOUND CITRUS-GLAZED SALMON

1 1/2 pounds center-cut salmon fillets, skinned

2 tablespoons butter

1 orange, cut into 8 slices

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped pickled ginger

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons Grand Marnier

Yields 4 servings.

Light a hot fire in a barbecue grill or set your gas grill to hot. At the same time, preheat your oven to 375 F. Cut salmon fillets into 4 equal pieces.

In a large, nonreactive ovenproof skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add orange slices; brown lightly on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Add orange juice, balsamic vinegar, pickled ginger and sugar. Bring to boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Boil for 3 to 4 minutes to reduce to syrup, which should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Carefully remove from heat; stir in Grand Marnier. Set citrus glaze aside in pan.

When fire is hot, sear the meaty side down of salmon fillets for 3 to 4 minutes, until nicely browned with grill marks.

Transfer salmon fillets skinned side down to skillet holding citrus glaze; baste to coat. Place in oven; bake for 7 to 8 minutes, or until cooked through but still moist. Serve with remaining glaze drizzled over fish. Garnish with orange slices.

— “In the Kennedy Kitchen” by their chef Neil Connolly with text by Elizabeth Benedict (DK, $35).

1887 WHITE HOUSE BROWN BREAD

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup rye flour

1 cup whole-wheat flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup buttermilk

3/4 cup molasses

Yields 1 loaf.

Stir dry ingredients together. Stir in buttermilk and molasses. Beat well. Pour into bread pan, filling two-thirds full. Wrap waxed paper over top and sides; tie securely around pan. Place trivet in bottom of large pot and put in about an inch of water. Get water boiling then put bread on trivet, so that water is not touching pan.

Cover pot and let bread steam for 2 1/2 hours. Add water to pot occasionally so it won't boil dry. Carefully remove bread from pot and take off paper. Bake bread in 350 F oven for 20 minutes until brown.

— Adapted from “The White House Cook Book” by Mrs. F.L. Gillette and Hugo Ziemann, 1887, and published in “Politics & Pot Roast” by Sarah Hood Salomon (Bright Sky, $24.95).

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including “Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook” and “The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook.” She also writes the Creators News Service “Cooks' Books” column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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Originally Published on Thursday August 14, 2008

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