Maybe a dozen years ago or more, business was transacted and deals were sealed in Cleveland hotel bars like the Stouffers. Downtown was somewhat comatose and all the "action" was in saloons down by the Flats near the Cuyahoga River. But they were mostly populated by wild childs drinking shots of whiskey with a beer chaser or Jell-O shooters.

Hardly, venues for business travelers

A blink later and it's 2008. Cleveland has undergone at least a couple of renaissances by my count. Fancy hotels have sprouted and friendly thirst parlors have rolled out the red carpet to visitors, not just locals. In the popular Warhouse District, I like the Metropolitan Caf? (www.hydeparkrestaurants.com), the Velvet Dog (www.velvetdogcleveland.com) and Crop Bistro (www.cropbistro.com). In the East 4th St. Entertainment District you will find the high-energy and cool Lola Bistro (www.lolabistro.com) and Wonder Bar (www.wonderbarcleveland.com). Or check out Table 45 (www.tbl45.com) in the Intercontinental Hotel.

However, there is an Italian clan that is beloved by Clevelanders and the downtown outpost is the place to go these days. It all started with their Santosuossos, Cleveland's first family of Italian cuisine and cocktails. Great grandma Louise launched the dynasty in the 1920s with a restaurant and saloon on Fulton Road that survived Prohibition and a speakeasy and is now called Johnny's Bar. But three generations later, Johnny's Downtown in the Warehouse District (216-623-0055; 1406 W. 6th St., www.johnnyscleveland.com) is the power drinking and dining house in this increasingly hip city.

Just ask John Zingales, an asset manager for Smith Barney in Cleveland and the No. 1 fan of Johnny's for almost 20 years. Does he have a barstool named after him yet? "You don't want a special place at the bar, " he smiles. “Everyone hunkers down and settles in and you meet many interesting people.”

Zingales, who hoists a Glenlivet single malt on the rocks, says Johnny's is a magical spot for him. "Had my first date here with my wife, Marla, and we started off at the bar. A prominent Cleveland attorney, Bob Rotatori, who's known as Cleveland Bob, comes in and croons weekly at the piano bar, which is action central from 6 pm to close. This place is historic."

Can't argue that. Originally, the Burgess Grocers Building, which housed a dry goods store that dates to 1860, the 18-foot ceilings give it a cathedral look and the bar is sort of a rectory of dark mahogany, black and white floor tiles and huge floor-to-ceiling tapestries that are both artistic and great soundproofing. A dozen burgundy leather barstools, two simple but classic chandeliers over the bar and a huge spray of fresh flowers on the backbar plus a half dozen murals in the dining room fill the space with Old World elegance and sophistication.

Johnny's Downtown is under the watchful eye of partners Joe Santosuosso and Paul Anthony, well-seasoned hosts who make newcomers feel like regulars. "Businesswomen and vacationers can sit at our bar, have a drink and never have to worry about unwanted suitors," says Paul. "The bartenders and all of us keep an eye on them. "

Mixologist Richard Ballard, who has worked for the Santosuossos for 23 years, is the soul of discretion. I tried to wheedle names and unforgettable yarns out of Ballard and, like a pro bartender, he wouldn't betray a trust. "Everyone comes here — Browns, Indians, some Cavaliers, lawyers, judges, CEOs, news media," he concedes, "and I have lots of good stories but you'll only hear them after I am dead." To paraphrase a trite slogan, "What happens at Johnny's Downtown stays at Johnny's Downtown."

Johnny's is a magnet for more than sports starts, business chiefs and politicos. It's near the Ritz-Carlton Cleveland, Marriott at Key Center, the Wyndham and the new Intercontinental. Hotel concierges know they can send guests over and not worry about complaints.

This is no oasis for bargain hunters who want to imbibe at yesteryear prices. No happy hour here, but the wine list nabbed an Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator. The list has 10 reds and whites but the labels are a bit pedestrian. The J. Lohr Cabernet is $7.25 for a six-ounce glass and the house chardonnay is Hess Select at $6.50 for the same pour. Still, there is diversity. You can choose from two cabs, two merlots, a pinot noir, Chianti, several other chardonnays and a fume and sauvignon blanc among others.

Ballard says the martini reigns as the favorite cocktail at Johnny's Downtown. While he mixes plenty of the classic gin version — "very, very, very dry with Bombay or Beefeater" — he is getting calls for pomegranate or espresso vodka martinis using Grey Goose, Ketel One and Absolut. Other popular potables: pricey vodka on the rocks and Manhattans. Straight-up cocktails are about 7 ounces in size and prices hold tight at $10.

Still, Cleveland hasn't abandoned its roots. "We carry lots of beers," confides Ballard. No drafts, though, but besides the usual Bud and Miller Lite and the familiar labels, the hometown brew, Great Lakes Dortmunder Gold, at $5 a bottle goes down smoothly. Especially, with the bar appetizers that range from stuffed calamari and banana peppers filled with Asiago cheese, ground veal and peppercorns that average $13.

At Johnny's Downtown, the bar can double as a dining table and anything on the menu will be served on linen over mahogany.

A local favorite is the veal chop Milanese with Savoy potatoes and a seasonal veggie for $43. Mangia.

To find out more about Chris Barnett and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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