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Cooks' Books by Lisa Messinger

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Lisa Messinger

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A Virtual New England Autumn Vacation is as Close as This Cookbook

"A Master Class: Sensational Recipes from the Chefs of the New England Culinary Institute, Fresh Passionate New England Cooking" by the Chefs of the New England Culinary Institute and Ellen Michaud (University Press of New England, $35).

Can you take your fall vacation without doing more than cracking open the pages of a cookbook? You can if the book is "A Master Class: Sensational Recipes from the Chefs of the New England Culinary Institute, Fresh Passionate New England Cooking." Virtually every page is filled with regional recipes even more breathtaking than a brisk walk through a forest of trees with just-turning-gold-and-red autumn leaves.

In fact, some of the book's recipes' signature "Final Touch" paragraphs, which give presentation tips that would call for garnishing your masterpieces with such eye-catchers like the deep-colored leaves. Surprisingly, even though recipes are from one of the country's best culinary schools, those down-to-earth tips are about as chichi as this tome gets. The dishes are approachable fare that reflect the hearty region in which they were born. Unlike many dry, less inspired competing books, simply cozying up by a fireplace and reading this one while gazing at its tempting color photographs is enough to drive appetites wild.

A few fall examples:

— Cheddar bread pudding is draped with apple butter and dark beer caramel sauce.

— Creme brulee is dripping with maple syrup.

— A sauce with McIntosh apples, cider and rosemary cuddles up with seared flank steak.

— Maine lobster peeks out of a brandy-white wine-tarragon soufflŽ.

— Brie creamily melts in a cauliflower, potato and sage soup.

Vermont food writer Ellen Michaud has helped award-winning chefs like Michel LeBorgne and Gavin Kaysen present every recipe in a straightforward, easy to follow format. The book title, "A Master Class," might be a bit of a misnomer. The book is predominantly filled with the easy recipes and isn't stuffed with lessons or techniques.

The winning end result is that, although the recipes might taste a bit more accomplished, it's just like a New England aunt or uncle stashed some cherished family ones in your luggage at the end of a visit in order to take in the fall foliage. And, more importantly, the cheddar bread pudding:

CHEDDAR BREAD PUDDING WITH APPLE BUTTER AND DARK BEER CARAMEL SAUCE

Apple Butter:

6 Granny Smith apples

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

Caramel Sauce:

1 quart dark beer, any style

2 cups granulated sugar

Bread Pudding:

1 loaf brioche or challah bread (or other rich, soft bread)

6 eggs

1 pint heavy cream

1 pint whole milk

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups sharp cheddar cheese

Yields 6 servings.

To prepare apple butter: Preheat oven to 325 F.
Peel, seed and core apples. Cut them into quarters. Combine apples, butter, cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar in a 2-inch deep 9-by-9-inch pan. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 50 minutes, or until tender. Puree the apple mixture in a food processor until smooth.

To prepare caramel sauce: Reduce beer in a saucepot until 2 cups remain. In a saute pan, heat sugar over medium heat until it is a dark honey color, then remove from heat. Add in the reduced beer, and stir to combine the two. Pour into a metal pan and cool.

To prepare bread pudding: Slice bread into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Set aside to dry out for 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 300 F.

In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, heavy cream, milk, sugar and vanilla. In a buttered 9-by-9-inch pan, place a layer of bread, cutting to fit as need be. Evenly cover bread with cheese then place another layer of bread over cheese. Pour custard mixture over bread, allowing it to sink in evenly. Bake in oven for 30 minutes, or until custard is set and top is golden brown.

Serve bread pudding warm with apple butter and caramel sauce.

SPICED MAPLE SWEET POTATO SPEARS

1 teaspoon dark chili powder

1 teaspoon maple sugar

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

2 large sweet potatoes (10 to 12 ounces each)

2 teaspoons olive oil

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Yields 4 to 6 servings.

Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or foil and oil lightly.

In a small bowl, combine chili powder, maple sugar, cumin and garlic.

Scrub potatoes well and dry with paper towels, then halve lengthwise and cut each half into 4 spears. Place in a large stainless steel bowl and toss with oil, then sprinkle with spice mixture and toss well. Transfer to baking sheet and roast, turning once, until tender and lightly browned, about 25 minutes.

The final touch: Season with salt and pepper and garnish with some fresh thyme leaves. Cilantro and lime also go well with these sweet potatoes.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.




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Originally Published on Thursday October 23, 2008

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