I love German Riesling.

Indeed, I love Riesling as a grape variety and appreciate the wine it makes from many locations, almost regardless of where it grows. But there is a special nature about those that come from Germany, even those that are not from the politically correct districts.

The problem with writing about German Riesling is that after I type out the names of a half dozen brands, complete with special designations, vineyard names and wine styles, there would be no more room for the rest of the commentary.

Example: a term as standard as (SET ITALS) erzeugerabfüllung, (END ITALS) complete with umlaut. It means estate bottled, sort of, but has a loophole. Or the word (SET ITALS) prädikatswein, (END ITALS) which basically means a quality wine. Or what some people consider the greatest dessert wine of all, (SET ITALS) trockenbeerenauslese. (END ITALS) All seven of its syllables.

And what about wine styles? Look at the word (SET ITALS) trocken, (END ITALS) which means dry. Thus you would expect a wine called Spätlese Trocken to be totally dry, even though Spätlese usually refers to a rather sweetish wine.

However, the German wine law permits there to be up to 9 grams per liter of residual sugar. So it's not dry?

Well, actually it probably will be to most people. Such a wine will be dry (SET ITALS) on the tongue (END ITALS) because of superb acidity. Uh, usually. In years such as 2003, however, the acid was compromised by a summer of heat unlike Europe had seen in a long time, so even a (SET ITALS) trocken (END ITALS) wine from 2003 might be seen as a bit sweet.

This is getting more confusing the more I write.

So, you may ask, what is this fascination I have with German Riesling? Well, to answer that question, let me confess that I'm not sure whether I like German wines better than I do Riesling or whether it's the grape that does so well in German soil that slays me.

Whatever, this is a complicated subject made more so by the fact that the Germans admit their marketing of their top wines to Americans hasn't been made very simple and easy to understand. They know it's not easy to even pronounce some German terms (just try to say (SET ITALS) anbaugebeite (END ITALS) three times fast).

The confusion started for me a long time ago when the government tried to be fair by establishing official recognition of top-rated vineyards. There were 30,000 of them. That's a lot, so about 14 years ago, the law changed (again), reducing that to the manageable (?) number of 2,500.

Recently, the Germans changed their wine laws yet again (more than once, actually) and this time it added new terminology that clarifies things a bit. At least, that's the hope.

The word "Classic" on a wine label now is defined as a dry or mostly dry wine aimed at serving with food.

The word "Selection" is to be used for a slightly richer wine, yet one that is essentially dry, but comes from a high-quality site.

The phrase "Erstes Gewächs" is used only for a high-caliber dry wine from the Rheingau and from a highly rated vineyard.

And the phrase "Erste Lage," which means top-flight vineyard, is used in the Mosel to designate high-caliber dry wines from selected sites.

I think. The problem here is that a simple explanation of the German wine law is nearly impossible. Interpretations differ and some terms are not clearly defined.

Or maybe they are.

So I basically just ignore what the law says. I just buy German Riesling to sip, with seafood or without, and enjoy the delightful flavors only the Riesling grape can deliver.

Wine of the Week: 2007 Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Riesling, Model ($16) — Fresh, appealing aroma of apple and spiced pears, lilting softness in the entry, and a rich layer of fruit in the mid-palate. Not a very complex wine, but a delightful multipurpose white that would work with Thai food or all by itself in the waning days of summer on a patio.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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