Funny, for someone born and raised in Southern California, winter is my favorite season. It all started when I fell in love with alpine skiing, a sport I took up in my early 20s. Decades later, there is still nothing more invigorating than to feel the cold, sharp air whipping across my face and to hear the swooshing of my skis as I sail down the slopes.
Of the many mountains I've skied in the west, Park City in Utah's Wasatch Mountains reigns as my favorite. You see, I not only look for great snow, but ambience and non-ski offerings matter, too. This is where Park City and its elegant sister mountain, Deer Valley, stand out from the rest.
First, getting there is a breeze. From Salt Lake City International Airport, the drive is under 45 minutes. If one is really ambitious, Park City offers a free lift ticket on the day you arrive so you can be on the mountain by midday. As for myself, I prefer to wait a day. When I do — between Park City and Deer Valley — I ski to my heart's content.
The 2002 Winter Olympics raised Park City's profile when it served as a venue for ski jumping, bobsled, skeleton and luge events. Its Olympic Park continues as a world-class training center for Olympic and development level athletes and invites visitors to take an exhilarating bobsled ride (I dared myself to do it) at 70 mph and 4 Gs of force. Watching bobsled races have a new meaning for me.
Park City has certainly made its mark in modern times. But its past has a story, too, with a fascinating mining history that dates back to 1868 when silver was discovered. Looking to strike it rich, adventurous souls came from across the country and as far away as Finland, Norway, Sweden, Italy, and China. Twenty-three became millionaires, including George Hearst, father of newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst.
Remnants of that rugged history can be found in the buildings lining historic Main Street, Park City's main drag. Like an outdoor museum, they offer a glimpse into the town's colorful past. A booklet I picked up at the Park City Museum (also on Main) was my entertaining guide as I strolled passed one historic building after another (sixty-four buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places). Who would know otherwise that the two-story structure at 176 Main was a boarding home for miners?
When the silver boom began fading in the mid-1930s, Park City focused on its second mother lode — skiing. It's appropo to say that the inspiration for winter competition started here with the help of the Engen brothers of Norway, who introduced ski jumping events at Ecker Hill. By 1946 Park City's first ski area, Snow Park, opened.
Today, Park City boasts about 8,000 year-round residents — slightly more than its population back in 1896. Each winter it increases sizably and Park City has kept pace with new lodgings, from very affordable to luxury accommodations. Indeed, the town is a melting pot of transplants from across the U.S. and around the world.
While other ski towns lose their luster after the winter season, Park City is a thriving community and destination with shops and restaurants open year-round. Summers are just as lively with festivals, concerts on the mountain, and art shows, not to mention outstanding fishing, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding. No wonder people who come to visit never want to leave.
If shopping is your bag, Park City is a high-altitude paradise of clothing boutiques, bookstores, jewelry shops, and outstanding art galleries (there is also a movie theater).
A venue worth a stop is the Kimball Art Gallery.
And we mustn't forget Robert Redford's annual Sundance Film Festival that takes place Jan. 15-25, 2009, in Park City and at Sundance Resort. Thirty years strong, this international competition showcases the best new works of independent filmmakers.
While Park City connects me to the area's rich and rustic past, Deer Valley Resort was the remarkable brainstorm 30 years ago to create a ski resort with the amenities of a fine hotel — attentive service, luxury accommodations, and the finest cuisine. Deer Valley Resort founder Edgar Stern wanted to build a ski mountain, "where skiers would be treated like guests as opposed to customers." The result is the ultimate ski experience.
Every time my petite frame lugs skis, poles, and boots to the lodge, I can't help mumbling that one must really love the sport to heave around all its cumbersome equipment. So I quite liked the pampering at Deer Valley when I pulled up to the Snow Lodge and attendants greeted me at the car and carried my equipment for me.
Deer Valley is a haven for alpine skiing fans because it's one of three ski-only resorts in the country (the other two are Alta in Utah and Mad River Glen in Vermont). Also, it limits the number of daily skiers on the mountain so crowds and long lift lines are never a worry.
The carrot for me after working hard on the mountain is the fabulous apres ski scene because great dining is a must on my list. On an active ski vacation I burn up the calories so I don't feel guilty eating like an Olympic athlete. Dining choices in Park City and Deer Valley - from burgers and macaroni 'n' cheese to wild game and sushi — are as plentiful as the number of ski trails on the map. I can't wait to start my day with breakfast at the Snow Lodge in Deer Valley where fireplaces warm the cabin atmosphere of the dining room. Eating brioche French toast next to a crackling fire has never been so divine.
It pleased me also to see that Park City is doing its share to care for the environment by reducing traffic pollution. Among other efforts, its free bus system powered by bio-diesel fuels takes visitors and residents pretty much anywhere they need to go.
While I've traveled to many parts of the world, I've discovered that some of the best places on earth are in our own backyard. Park City is one of them. And for a gal living in Los Angeles, my only regret on a cold winter's morning is pushing back the curtain in my living room and not seeing my lawn blanketed in snow.
IF YOU GO
Park City Resort and Deer Valley Resort are easily accessible from Salt Lake City International Airport. For information about lodging, ski rates, ski school and other activities, visit www.parkcity.com or call 800-222-7275; or www.deervalley.com or call 800-558-3337
Park City's Quick S.T.A.R.T program promotes Ski Today and Ride Today: Simply present your airline boarding pass for a free lift ticket on your date of arrival. For more details call Park City or visit its website.
Athena Lucero is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE, INC.
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