Travel and Adventure by Various Travel Authors

On my first visit to Vietnam in 1998, I had an epiphany. Vietnam is a country, not a war. A family member returning from a visit urged me, "Go to Vietnam now, it is changing fast. It is the way Thailand and Singapore use to be." I did, and returned again in 2009 curious to see what changes had taken place since my first visit.

HANOI

In 1998, the streets were a sea of bicycles. Women elegant in traditional ao dais pedaled 1950s-style bicycles and every conceivable item from pigs to produce to pottery was transported on motorbikes. Today, motorbikes are more common than bicycles, blue jeans have replaced ao dais, and there has been a quantum leap in tourism.

Communism — albeit with an infusion of capitalism — is still the order of the day. People stand in line to see Ho Chi Minh lying in state and the House on Stilts where he lived and worked.

The Temple of Literature dating from the 11th century is Hanoi's best-preserved ancient site. It is the oldest institution of higher education in Vietnam and where mandarins, the high court officials, were educated for more than 700 years. The Hao Lo Prison, dubbed the Hanoi Hilton by Sen. John McCain, R-Ariz., and other American POWs, is now a museum. Most of the rooms of the French-built prison are dedicated to the Vietnamese struggle for freedom from the French. I developed a better understanding of Vietnam's long and difficult history. America's involvement in Vietnam is just one page in their history of war.

In the heart of Hanoi is picturesque Hoan Kiem Lake, the Lake of the Restored Sword. The Legend of the Restored Sword is one of the vignettes at the Kim Dong Water Puppet Theater. Water puppetry is a magical art form unique to Vietnam. It originated in the flooded rice paddies of the Red River delta area. Invisible puppeteers stand in waist-deep water manipulating lacquered puppets complete with fire-breathing dragons while the live band punctuates the action with gongs and drums. Ten years ago, there were more puppeteers and band members than people in the audience. Now, there are several shows a day but they still perform with a live band. It is my all-time favorite puppet performance.

Fascinating day tours from Hanoi visit handicraft towns and the village of Le Mat. Le Mat is best known for keeping snakes in readiness for medicine and meals. It is the wine with a coiled snake curing in the bottom of the bottle that draws the most attention.

East of Hanoi is one of Vietnam's most beautiful regions, rightly designated a World Heritage site. Unforgettable boat tours ply the emerald waters of magical Halong Bay with breathtaking vistas of the hundreds of islands. Another favorite side trip is to Sapa, home to minority cultures and heart-stopping landscapes of mountains and rice terraces.

HO CHI MINH CITY

The former Saigon is more westernized than Hanoi, with many high-rise buildings. I was surprised to find displays in the War Remnants Museum more graphic than those in Hanoi's Army Museum. Especially chilling were images depicting the effects of Agent Orange.

One of the most incredible day tours I have ever taken was through the nearby Cu Chi Tunnels. The maze of tunnels and booby traps gives a real understanding to the problems Americans soldiers experienced during the war, plus I developed an appreciation for the tenacity of the Vietnamese who, even before the American War, as it is called in Vietnam, were forced to live underground for years.

The miles of tunnels could house up to 16,000 people. Most of the tunnels have been closed off, but a small portion is open and has been enlarged to accommodate tourists. When asked about the American War my guide replied, "That was then, this is now, let's go forward."

Most tours to the Cu Chi tunnels include a visit to the colorful Cao Dai Temple with the gigantic all-knowing Divine Eye occupying the central altar. Cao Dai, a mixture of Buddhism, Confucianism, and Catholicism, is indigenous to Vietnam. Victor Hugo, the French author, is one of the guiding spirits, and Winston Churchill, Moses, and Charlie Chaplin are some of the revered saints. Visitors are welcome to view their elaborate services.

MID-COUNTRY

China Beach, near Da Nang, was made famous in a television series of the same name. Today, it is on the way to becoming the Cancun of Vietnam, with high-end hotels sprouting up on the long sweeping beaches.

To the north of Da Nang is Hue, the former Imperial City of the Nguyen emperors. Wandering the grounds it is difficult to visualize the former grandeur because the city was leveled by war, but outside the city are the elaborate royal tombs. I took the advice of another traveler, "If you are going to only visit one tomb consider Khai Dinh, as long as climbing steps is not an issue. The view from the top is magnificent."

South of Da Nang in Hoi An, a UNESCO World Heritage site, it is still possible to get the feel of the old Vietnam. Once a trading port from the 15th to 19th centuries, there is blend of local and foreign influences with shop houses and a wet market.

My favorite city is Dalat. A gentleman's agreement saved it from destruction during the wars, thereby preserving the French influence. Located in the highlands at 4,500 feet, it has long been a refuge from the heat and humidity of Ho Chi Mien City. Interestingly, many of the deteriorating buildings were revived due to the largess of Larry Hillblom, the American lawyer who co-founded DHL delivery services. The Dalat cable car that took me over the fields, heavily forested hillsides, and a turquoise lake ended near the Truc Lam Monastery.

To view Datanla Waterfalls, I rode my personal mountain coaster through one exciting curve after another until I reached the impressive falls. According to local legend, it is where the fairies from heaven came to bathe.

Crazy House, a hostel that looks like Dr. Seuss created it, seems incongruous in a Vietnam where out-of-the-box activities are not encouraged. But it became more understandable when I was told the architect's father was the president of Vietnam in the 1980s.

Good times have finally arrived in Vietnam. It is a country with amazing sights, beautiful beaches, golf courses, excellent service, and is very tourist-ready. The Vietnamese are still the same welcoming and friendly people I met on my first trip. In the oft-quoted phrase, Vietnam is still "same-same but different."

IF YOU GO

Check Eviva Tour agency, www.evivatour.com.vn; www.vietnamtourism.com; and the Lonely Planet Vietnam guide book.

Several hotel chains have properties in Vietnam including IChotels, 877-424-2449; Marriott, 888-236-2427; and Accor Hotels, www.accorhotels.com.

Sandra Scott is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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