Travel and Adventure by Various Travel Authors

Bremen should be much better known.

A commercial center for centuries, Bremen today is a midsized city where almost all tourist attractions are easily reached by foot. Bremen's blend of well preserved medieval buildings, above-average museums, and a location within easy reach of many other northern Germany must-sees should makes this Baltic city an ideal stop for many of your Germany-bound clients.

Bremen's seaport was long the source of its wealth. A leading member of the Hanseatic League, it's trade brought the riches that paid for such buildings as its amazing town hall, and other structures that adorn and surround the beautifully preserved Market Square.

By the 19th century, silting on the River Weser reduced and ultimately ended cargo-ship access. That led to the creation of the port of Bremerhaven, less than an hour's train ride north. Though primarily a commercial port, one of Europe's busiest, it is still well worth a visit, particularly for its fascinating, 3-year-old German Emigration Museum.

But, first, Bremen itself is packed with appeals, including enticing medieval structures, fascinating restored neighborhoods, fine art culture, and cuisine.

Because proximity to the historic district, plus easy access to the city's tramline are definite pluses, you couldn't do any better than to book into the comfortable, modern and perfectly located 230-room Swissotel. Rooms are spacious, staff is helpful, and breakfasts are tasty and hearty. What's more, it's just a five-minute walk from the heat of the old town as well as the main train station.

The Marktplatz is the heart of medieval Bremen. Gabled houses, a 32-foot-high statue of Roland, the knight who became the city symbol, a modern sculpture of the Brothers Grimm, "Town Musicians of Bremen," and a 16th century home that served as a merchant's meeting place are all notable.

But the Marktplatz' most striking structure is the Rathaus, or city hall, whose facade is covered with statuary and whose interiors are worthy of a royal palace

Considering that Bremen suffered heavy World War II damage, the fact that the 600-year-old statue of Roland and the City Hall, UNESCO World Heritage Site, largely escaped unscathed is noteworthy. Therefore the great hall that welcomed city council meetings for centuries, the fabulously decorated golden room with its awesome massive frescoes, a spectacular spiral staircase, and a most bizarre 1926 painted tableaux showing a dinner honoring World War I leader Paul von Hindenburg all survived intact.

What makes this painting noteworthy is that the picture purposely portrays people who could not possibly have attended. During a fascinating tour, we were told that after the war, the faces of those who were or became prominent Nazis or sympathizers were painted over, replaced by portraits of 1960s-era politicians with more favorable resumes.

Another reason to cheer the Rathaus' survival is the mural-lined cellar Ratskeller, where the menu features large portions of game and fish, all of which can be washed down with copious beer or one's choice from more than 600 German wines. Reservations are mandatory during prime dining times, although walk-ins are welcome after 8:30 pm.

Other prime Marktplatz draws are the Romanesque St. Peters Cathedral whose origins date to the 11th century, and the Bottcherstrasse (barrel makers' street), a pedestrian arcade that links the Marktplatz with the River Weser.

Just 360 feet long, the street, as it appears today, was the creation of Ludwig Roselius, an industrialist with a distinct taste for what was avante-garde art in the beginning of the 20th century.

Then, the street was decidedly in decay. The barrel makers like other maritime suppliers had left, following the shift of seaborne activity toward Bremerhaven.

Starting in 1902, Roselius bought one former packinghouse, and, subsequently many more, most of which were torn down to make room for new structures. What ultimately resulted was the Paula Modersohn Becker Museum, primarily focusing on the art of this underappreciated artist (1876-1907), plus works of important contemporaries including.

In the adjoining Ludwig Roselius House, a transformation of the first house Roselius purchased, his eclectic collection is housed — ranging from medieval paintings by Franz Hals and Lucas Cranach, plus furniture, great silver pieces, medieval glass and porcelain.

Interestingly, Adolph Hitler detested the rebuilt Bottcherstrasse, particularly for its distinctive art deco appearance.

But his chief architect, Albert Speer, didn't mind it. According to a Bremen city guide, Speer persuaded the Fuhrer to preserve it as an outstanding example of "decadent art." Many locals are convinced that Speer's opinion — or clever strategy — saved what today, is one of Germany's shortest yet most fascinating byways.

But there is plenty more to enjoy in Bremen's oldest quarter, the "Schnoor," also bordering on the Weser. Significantly lower than the more prosperous parts of town, and for centuries subject to devastating floods, the sector was long the home of Bremen's poorest and most transient denizens. It was almost razed soon after the World War II. But when modern flood controls removed the threat from the River Scnoor, which translates as "string," the area suddenly became desirable.

Bremen visitors certainly agree, with thousands pouring through daily to dine at its restaurants, visit its clubs, walk its narrow and twisty cobblestone lanes, shop at its many boutiques, and otherwise revel in its relaxed, laid-back atmosphere.

Even more extensive district is the Ostertorvertel, a particularly lively area, once known for its elegant stately homes, but now patronized by a counterculture crowd that dines, shops and strolls throughout its decidedly "Greenwich Village-type" milieu.

This district begins quite near the heart of Bremen's traditional arts center. These include the Kunsthalle Bremen, which unfortunately recently closed for an extensive renovation, and the Theater on Gotheplatz, home to excellent symphonic and opera performances.

A one-hour train ride north of Bremen lies Bremerhaven, one of Germany's busiest ports. While today it handles tens of thousands of freight containers, between 1800 and 1950 it was the departure point for more than 7 million emigrants, of which 1.2 million headed for the New World.

This phenomenon is lauded in the German Emigration Center, which debuted in 2005. Here, visitors can spend most of a day listening to emigrant stories, examining replications of steamship sleeping quarters, cabins, dining areas, sanitation facilities, and the decks of a late 19th century steamship, all emblematic of what the mostly poor travelers encountered.

Also, and of particular interest to those tracking family background, is a section where visitors can check computerized records, not just of those who actually left from Bremerhaven, but also individuals who departed from many other European destinations.

The center has a compact restaurant and shop, and is extremely user-friendly. Incidentally, and particularly for those tracing family lineages, this center is fine complement to the BallinStadt center in nearby Hamburg, another major emigration departure point. BallinStadt focuses on a community erected by a major steamship line executive to accommodate, prepare, and generally try and improve the health of, those waiting for their ships to depart.

Hamburg, Germany's second largest city, is just one of many nearby draws — -all accessible via German Rail and the German rail pass that can definitely enhance a visit to Bremen. Others include Worpswede, the decidedly rural 19th century artist colony that today features galleries, studios and workshops. Throughout the year, but particularly during warmer weather, Worpswede presents fine strolling and shopping opportunities.

Prime Worpswede artists included Paula Modersohn-Becker, her husband Otto Modersohn, and the poet Rainer Maria Rilke.

IF YOU GO:

Swissotel (www.swissotel.com).

German Emmigration Center: www.dah-bremerhaven.de/index_flash.html

German Rail (www.railpass.com)

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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