In this highly charged political season, I feel the need to demonstrate that I, too, have a big tent. So no sooner had the ink dried on my screed about the motive for those big shouldered, powerful, high-alcohol California wines, I found myself in the belly of the beast.

I had agreed to a meeting with Michael Twelftree, co-owner of Two Hands wines. I'm not terribly fond of the Two Hands style, but I respect what they do and recognize they do it very well. And I am aware the Two Hands wines — primarily shiraz from a number of distinct appellations in South Australia — have a passionate following among connoisseurs here in the United States.

To describe the Two Hands wines as blockbusters would not do them justice. They are dense, inky red wines that pack a whopping kick, often exceeding 16 percent alcohol. A mouthful, to say the least.

While I have scolded California producers for making such wines, I find myself tolerant of this ilk from Australia. Perhaps that's hypocritical, but I think not. The Aussies, to my way of thinking, long ago embraced the blockbuster red wine — which lends itself naturally to elevated alcohol levels — because it reflects conditions on the ground.

Australia's most celebrated wine region is the Barossa Valley, a hot, arid growing district that sets the tone for the rest of the country. The Aussies were making ripe, seductive, powerhouse wines long before any of them had ever heard of Robert Parker or The Wine Spectator. So when a young winery (the first vintage was 2000) such as Two Hands delivers the high-octane goods, it is merely being true to the traditions of a place.

I have no problem with that. I part company with advocates of this style with the notion that it's the only way, the only truth and the only light and other styles — less robust, more subtle, driven as much by minerality and earthiness as purity of fruit — are wimpy and unworthy of critical acclaim.

Twelftree hardly falls into that camp. His wine appreciation is broad; in fact he owns a negociant business in Burgundy and confesses that when he teaches his now-very-young children about wine, he will use Burgundy as the model.

So about those Two Hands wines. I ran through six of the Two Hands Garden Series Shiraz — wines from the Barossa, Langhorne Creek, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, and Heathcote priced at about $60 a bottle. Each wine is named after a different family member — such as Lily's Garden (McLaren Vale) or Samantha's Garden (Clare Valley).

To be fair, there is much more to these wines than high alcohol. They are robust, yes, but delicious, too, and multidimensional. But while I was thinking power and richness, Twelftree was saying elegance and finesse. To each his own.

We agree on this much, however. The Two Hands wines are remarkably complete. They smell great, they're generous on the palate, the tannins are ultra-smooth, almost silky, and all are distinctive for their length in the mouth and lingering finish.

“So many wines have loads of fruit up front and in the middle, but so few finish,” said Twelftree. “These wines finish.”

Indeed they do. So, while ordinarily not my thing, the overall tasting experience was enjoyable. But I must say, a little bit of Two Hands goes a long way.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Watershed 2004 Shiraz, Australia ($19) — Delicious and spicy, showing intense aromas of raspberry and red currant, this is a lovely, remarkably well-balanced shiraz from Margaret River, which is probably better known for its Cabernet than its shiraz. This very sexy wine is fresh and lively on the palate, with a lingering berry finish that begs another sip. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Bodegas Luis Alegre 2003 Gran Vino Pontac Rioja, Spain ($70) — Taken together, the entire range of current releases from Bodegas Luis Alegre speaks well of the family's commitment to quality. Taken by itself, the flagship Pontac Gran Vino is a triumph unto itself. This is an absolutely gorgeous wine, magnificently balanced despite the searing heat of the '03 vintage, and a wine that is remarkably youthful fully five years from the harvest. One thing that impresses throughout all the Alegre wines is the clever use of oak, or not. Unlike many Spanish vintners, Luis Alegre sees no need to overwhelm his wonderful wines with the flavors and tannins of gaudy new oak. But even in a wine such as the Pontac, which commands more of a presence from the wood, the oak is merely an accent. The nose of this wine is of blackberries and spice, with hints of forest floor, and the palate is long and sleek, showing fine tannins and fresh acidity. Unlike many wines of the infamous '03 vintage, there is nothing ponderous or clumsy to get in the way of a promising wine on its way to greatness. Rating: 94.

Bodegas Luis Alegre 2002 "Selected Vintage" Rioja, Spain ($48) — If you know anything about the 2002 vintage in Rioja you probably know to avoid it. Not so fast. Some bodegas did quite well, and the "Selected Vintage" from Luis Alegre is proof positive. That said, the best red wines from the harvest are far from typical. Because of the cool, wet harvest the wines are not nearly as soft and velvety as usual, showing a firmness of structure and an initial leanness that has improved their ability to age. Thus this '02 is only now coming into its own, but even given the lingering wall of tannin, the spicy red berry fruit and rustic earth notes are emerging and clearly about to blossom. Rating: 91.

Azamor 2004 "Selected Vines", Portugal ($36) — This relatively new winery (the first vines were planted in 2001) is off to an impressive beginning. The Selected Vines blend is eclectic — syrah, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet, and trincadeira — but that is hardly its only charm. This is a sophisticated wine, full of nuance and subtlety, with aromas of plum, blackberry and dried herbs, supported by refined, elegant tannins. The oak regime is a well-measured blend of French and American, but fully 60 percent of the wine never sees any wood. The result is a red of uncommon balance and finesse at a relatively modest price given the lofty ambition of the winery. Rating: 90.

The Six Masters 2004 Shiraz , Australia($20) — Hunter Valley shiraz often manages to avoid the ripe, jammy characters associated with Aussie shiraz. The Six Masters '04 delivers a nicely balanced expression of Hunter Valley shiraz that shows a subtle peppery nuance along with seductively soft black and red fruits and an intriguing note of licorice. Rating: 89.

Azamor 2005 Petit Verdot, Portugal ($30) — There is a fair amount (24 percent) of Mourvedre in this red wine that can legally be labeled Petit Verdot, but whatever you call it make sure you include the word "delicious." Its soft, supple red and black-fruited aromas are fresh and alive on the forward palate, then a spicy backnote kicks in, and the finish is long and smooth, showing soft tannins and a sweet purity of fruit. A drink-now wine. Rating: 89.

Bodegas Luis Alegre 2004 Rioja Crianza, ($23) — This extremely modern rioja has the round, supple mouthfeel of an internationally styled wine, but it never seems far from its Spanish roots. Lovely aromas of raspberry and strawberry dominate. The finish is spicy and long. Exceptional quality for a Crianza. Rating: 88.

Watershed 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Australia ($19) — I'm not one to sit around sipping a red Bordeaux blend at the cocktail hour, but this one would be mighty tempting if such a situation presented itself. This is a serious wine with all the trappings of a quaffer, including plush, ripe fruit and soft, sweet tannins. The nose is complex red berry fruit with a hint of eucalyptus, and the palate is full-bodied without being overly substantial and heavy. Overall, quite a good drink. Rating: 87.

Azamor 2004 Red Wine, Portugal ($20) — Much like the winery's flagship "Selected Vines" bottling, Alegre's "Red Wine" is an eclectic if somewhat different blend. It's also only partially barrel aged, meaning it's not dominated by wood notes. While not exactly a beaujolais style, it does offer some of the fresh cranberry and red raspberry notes often found in beaujolais, though with considerably more body and grip and a leafy nuance that is attractive rather than off-putting. All in all quite nice, straightforward and yummy. Rating: 87.

Bodegas Luis Alegre 2005 "Tinto Joven" Rioja, Spain ($16) — Luis Alegre's Tinto Joven Rioja (young red wine) is rioja's paen to beaujolais — a fresh, young, fruity wine with many of the floral characteristics typically associated with Beaujolais. It's novel, simple and quite well done. Perfect for an autumn tailgate party or casual sipping at a cozy neighborhood wine bar. For wine techies in the crowd, Alegre's Tinto Joven is whole cluster pressed and sees no wood. Rating: 86.

Watershed 2004 Cabernet/Merlot/Shiraz, Australia ($17) — Fruity and soft, with flavors running to plum and blackberry, with a hint of anise. This wine is simple but very likeable, and a good companion for the likes of grilled brats and roasted fowl. Rating: 85.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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