Dear Robert,

I mentioned to a local wine (merchant) that I tend to choose California wine over Australian ones to support our local folks. He felt strongly that California wines have priced themselves out of reach and the Down Under products were much better values. Agree?

Also, I just read your "Don't judge a wine by its price tag" article. I wonder how many of your readers are like us. We are pretty well-off and enjoy wine daily with our dinner. During the week we typically have $10 or less (wines) and on Sunday something in the $15 to $25 range. I appreciate we are limiting our experiences both in taste and choice, but the values are generally quite good and I have a hard time justifying routinely spending even $35 for a bottle, let alone $100.

Don Hewitt

Dear Don,

There is little question that Australia has the upper hand when it comes to wine value. That may seem surprising to some given what must be enormous costs to ship wines from Australia to market in the United States, but there are many factors that come into play.

First, there is the exchange rate, which favors the U.S. dollar, though not to the extent it once did.

Second, there is the cost of land. A planted acre of Cabernet in one of the prime growing regions of California will cost significantly more than a comparable vineyard in the better growing regions of Australia.

Finally, there is mechanization. Australia's vintners, due to their country's small population, have embraced mechanical harvesting as well as other mechanized vineyard and winery tasks that limit the cost of labor.

As for your wine-purchasing habits, I believe they are fairly typical. It's safe to say there are many more wine enthusiasts at the $10 to $15 level than there are at the $100 level. We are fortunate to live in an age when wineries are willing and able to deliver a good product at those modest price points.

Of course, the less expensive wines tend to be produced on a massive scale and lack the unique personality of many of the higher priced wines, but that doesn't mean they aren't frequently delicious.

Dear Robert,

Have a question if you care to give me some feedback.

I have a friend who loves a buttery/oaky chardonnay. In your opinion, what would you recommend? How about the best choices for a $10, $20 and $30 bottle, and your favorite pick. She recently tried an Acacia Chardonnay, I don't know what vintage but she really enjoyed it.

Lisa

Dear Lisa,

Though I'm usually not seeking out buttery chardonnay with obvious notes of oak, wines made in this style continue to be popular and that's just fine by me. In the $10 range I would send you in the direction of Beringer Founders' Estate. This is a creamy chardonnay with enough oak, I believe, to satisfy those who enjoy a taste of the wood.

At $20, look to the Bernardus Chardonnay from Monterey County. Again, it's creamy and buttery with plenty of oak, but it also has a wonderful structure that gives the wine life and tension on the palate instead of the sometimes deadening coating of oily extract you will find in many wines of this ilk.

At $30 and up, you can't go wrong with the great Napa Valley producer ZD, or Monterey County's Talbott Vineyards, particularly the chardonnay from their Sleepy Hollow Vineyard.

Dear Robert,

My son is getting married in October and we have agreed to provide the champagne for the toast. How does one pick out champagne? I do not like "bubbly" and I do not want to spend a fortune, either.

Leatha Cooksy

Dear Leatha,

If "bubbly" is not your thing and you don't want to spend a great deal of money, look at domestic producers of sparkling wine rather than Champagne. Due to the slide of the dollar against the euro, Champagne is more expensive than ever and certainly not necessary for a nice wedding toast.

Korbel is a perfectly fine producer of domestic sparkling wine and its brut rose at $11 is one of the best values you will find in sparkling wine anywhere.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Mumm Cordon Rouge, Champagne ($35) - Although Champagne prices have soared with the decline of the dollar, great buys still exist. One of the best values on the market today is the Champagne Mumm Cordon Rouge, a non-vintage brut. Mumm Cordon Rouge endured a patch of mediocre releases through the early 1990s, but has enjoyed a renaissance of sorts since the mid-1990s until today. This is a full-bodied, robust Champagne that shows lovely notes of toasted brioche and yellow fruits, with surprising layers of complexity for a non-vintage brut. Serve it as an aperitif, with savory appetizers, but it has the power to take on flavorful game birds such as grilled squab or quail. Rating: 91.

Beringer 2005 Founders' Estate Merlot, California ($11) - This is a lovely, inexpensive merlot from one of the Napa Valley's iconic producers, the Beringer Vineyards of St. Helena. The price is quite a modest sum given the delicious nectar in the bottle. This vintage shows bright plum and blueberry fruit, with supple, polished tannins and a lingering finish. Rating: 88.

Cycles Gladiator 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast ($10) - Adam LaZarre, winemaker at Monterey's Hahn Estates, produces well-balanced red and white wines from estate-grown grapes. He also makes this less expensive line of wines, the Cycles Gladiator brand, from grapes sourced throughout California's Central Coast. The 2006 Cycles Gladiator Cabernet Sauvignon shows intense red/black fruit character and smooth tannins that portend easy drinking now. It was a Gold Medal winner at the 2008 Critics Challenge. Rating: 87.

Robert Whitley may be reached at whitonwine@aol.com.