You know a winery has hit its stride when it wins applause for everything it produces. I was reminded of this over the Memorial Day weekend, when the fifth annual Critics Challenge International Wine Competition brought together 14 of the world's most celebrated wine journalists to evaluate nearly 1,700 wines at downtown San Diego's Westgate Hotel.

The Barone Ricasoli of Tuscany, producer of the Brolio wines of Chianti Classico, put up three entries: the house wine, a 2003 Brolio Chianti Classico ($20); the proprietary star of the property, the 2001 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico ($54); and its 2005 Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva ($25).

That would be a gold medal, a platinum medal and another platinum. Not a bad weekend for a winery that not that long ago had been considered a second tier Tuscan has-been. That was before the arrival of the great Italian winemaking consultant, Carlo Ferrini, in the late 1990s.

But even after Ferrini took on the task of retooling Brolio, it was several years before new vineyard plantings took hold and Ferrini's golden touch became evident in the wines. Today, Brolio is a secret no more.

I had the same reaction to Randall Grahm's Bonny Doon, which took a platinum and two golds among its four medals overall. Grahm scored biggest with his 2006 Le Cigare Blanc ($20), an appealing white Rhone-style blend that offers a generously perfumed nose and smooth, viscous, juicy fruit aromas on the palate. His 2005 Le Pousseur Syrah ($18) and 2007 Ca' del Solo Albarino ($20) were awarded golds.

Mumm Napa Valley also caught my eye. A California producer of exceptional sparkling wines, Mumm did very well despite losing the big prize for Best of Show sparkling to a $400 Champagne (the 2000 Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs).

Both Mumm Napa's tetes de cuvee, the 2000 DVX ($55), and the non-vintage Brut Prestige ($19) took platinum awards and thus advanced to the round of voting for Best of Show. Four other Mumm wines (2003 Blanc de Blancs, $26; non-vintage Blanc de Noirs, $19; non-vintage Reserve Brut, $26; and 2001 Grande Anee, $30) received gold awards.

The Australian winery Angove's claimed five medals and took the greatest prize of all as its 2006 Vineyard Select Riesling ($17) from the Clare Valley was voted Critics Challenge Wine of the Year, breaking the three-year grip Champagne (Charles Heidsieck twice and Piper-Heidsieck once) has had on the top honor.

Angove's dry Riesling is further evidence that Australia's Clare Valley is among the world's greatest terroirs for Riesling, rivaling Germany, Austria and France (Alsace).

The Burgundy house of Chanson also chipped in with a stellar performance, earning a platinum award with its 2006 Meursault ($74) and golds for its 2005 Nuits Saint Georges ($54) and 2005 Premier Cru Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Caradeux ($45). Chanson's 2005 Volnay ($74) and 2005 Premier Cru Savigny-Dominode ($46) received silver medals.

Another Burgundian, Domaine Laroche of Chablis, was flying high as well. Laroche won five medals, including a platinum for its 2004 Premier Cru Chablis, Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes ($44) and a gold for the 2005 Premier Cru Chablis Les Vaudevey ($42).

Closer to home, Beringer had success with two of its bargain brands: Beringer Founders' Estate, which retails for $11, and Beringer Third Century, which is slightly more expensive at $14. The Third Century snagged a platinum award for its 2005 syrah and golds for a 2006 chardonnay and 2005 cabernet sauvignon. Founders' Estate took platinum with its 2005 merlot and gold with its 2005 chardonnay.

One of the biggest hauls by a value brand was Concannon's 12-medal take that included two golds and 10 silvers. The Concannon winners ranged in price from $11 to $36, with its golds coming on a 2005 Reserve Grenache at $24 and a 2006 Reserve Tempranillo at $25.

Best values, however, might have been Cycles Gladiator with two medals, both golds, for a $9.99 2006 cabernet sauvignon and a $10 2006 syrah; and Five Rivers with a platinum for its 2005 merlot at $10, and golds for the 2005 cabernet sauvignon from Paso Robles and 2007 Pinot Grigio from Monterey County, also at $10.

The Australian winery Jacob's Creek also checked in with a slew of medals at a slightly higher price point, but value wines nonetheless.

For a copy of the complete results e-mail me at whitleyonwine@yahoo.com or visit the Critics Challenge Web site (www.criticschallenge.com) after June 5. A unique feature of the Critics Challenge is the commentary that is excerpted from the judges' tasting notes and posted along with the results, but editing of the comments delays publication for at least two weeks following the judging.

Robert Whitley may be reached at whitonwine@aol.com.

© Copley News Service

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