The readers always write. Indeed they do, and the summer months, rich with outdoor distractions, are no exception.

John H. Trombley penned this comment over at Creators.com after reading my recent column on Prosecco:

Robert, wouldn't it be more correct to say that the process "used" to be aptly called "methode champenoise?" It's been a while, a few years even, since I've seen this phrase on a current release of a bubbly from Europe, or its equivalents from elsewhere. Don't I remember that the Champenoise groused in trade court and got the phrase eliminated in favor of the more generic "methode classique"? Less chance that someone would think that Prosecco or some other asseblage like Sekt or Cava was actually Champagne. A minor point, of course, in a very fine article.

Dear John: You are correct that recent trade agreements between the European Union and the United States have granted protections to historic place-names such as Champagne, Burgundy, Rioja, etc., but it would be extremely difficult, and frustrating I might add, to regulate terms that merely describe a process.

My good friend Ed McCarthy, who wrote the book "Champagne for Dummies," informs me the Champenoise would prefer the term "methode classique" be used to describe all sparkling wines made in the Champenoise method but not produced in the Champagne region.

I'll go along with the French and the Italians and the Spaniards on the sanctity of their historic place-names, but as far as I'm concerned the process of creating the bubbles by adding yeast and sugar to induce a second fermentation in the bottle is methode champenoise. Methode classique means nothing to the ordinary wine enthusiast.

Reader Bob Thornton, after reading my recent column on the value angle of Napa Valley merlot, recalled the first Napa Valley wine to be released as a varietal merlot:

The first bottling was 1970 Martini Special Selection Merlot. I purchased a bottle from the winery along with a case of 1970 Martini Special Selection Pinot Noir. All are long gone, but I distinctly remember being surprised at the time by the varietal bottling of the Merlot, which was why I bought it. It was still exceptional about 10 years later.

Dear Bob: I'll trust your memory on this. I do know Martini claims to be the first to make a "varietal" merlot and I'm not surprised it held up so well. Through the years Martini reds have been well balanced and age-worthy. You may also remember acceptance of merlot had an unusual evolution following the Martini breakthrough.

Connoisseurs soon after caught on to the brilliant merlot being made at Duckhorn in Napa Valley and Matanzas Creek in Sonoma Valley and a cult grew around those wines. But it wasn't until Sonoma County's Clos du Bois went into mass production with a solidly made and affordable merlot that average consumers became aware that merlot was anything other than a "blending" grape.

Reader Pam Boynton is on the lookout for bargain organic wines. She writes:

We're planning a wedding reception in September and are looking for reasonably priced organic wines. Any suggestions?

Dear Pam: The best organic wines for the money are the Bonterra wines from California's Mendocino County. For $12 to $16 you can purchase top-notch chardonnay, roussanne, sauvignon blanc, cabernet, merlot and syrah under the Bonterra label. The Bonterra wines are entered into virtually every major wine competition in the United States and never fail to win their share of medals even though competing against far more expensive wines from more glamorous regions.

A bit higher on the price scale are the Grgich Hills wines of the Napa Valley, which are now 100 percent organic and biodynamic. Grgich Hills chardonnay, fume blanc and cabernet sauvignon will set you back anywhere from $16 to $100 a bottle, but the wines have cache as well as superb quality.

BEST BUY

Kenwood 2006 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($15) — California's chardonnay rebound is hardly restricted to pricey vineyard-designated wines that are difficult to find. Kenwood, for example, won a Platinum Award at the 2008 Critics Challenge with this '06 Sonoma County chardonnay, a wine that held its own in the company of premier cru white Burgundies at three to five times the price. This vintage of Kenwood strikes a wonderful balance between the elements of fruit, acid and oak that often compete to the detriment of the finished wine. It delivers rich, ripe, yellow fruit flavor, a lemony nervosity that knifes through the rich viscosity that coats the palate, and a long, spicy finish. A truly exceptional "value" chardonnay from California. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Goldeneye 2005 Pinot Noir, Gowan Creek Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($75) — One of the most beautifully structured Pinots I've yet experienced from Goldeneye, this single-vineyard bottling is a superb example of the Anderson Valley's remarkable potential, yet it isn't even in full stride. The nose is alive and vibrant with the aroma of wild strawberry and darker fruits, while on the palate the wine is powerful and long, with a firmness on the back end that cries out for patience. The depth and power are achieved without sacrificing balance — an impressive feat. Rating: 95.

Robert Craig 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain ($70) — Big, intense and bold — everything you might expect from a serious Howell Mountain Cabernet. Robert Craig's '05 is packed with ripe, dark fruits, rich and dense on the palate, and finishes with chewy tannins that will age out with time. This wine was generously oaked, but the fruit can take it. In fact, it needs it. Despite its huge shoulders and bold flavors, this is an attractive wine that could be consumed young — with pleasure. Rating: 93.

Owl Ridge 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, T.R. Passalacqua Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley ($42) — This big, powerful cab from northern Sonoma County manages to demonstrate a level of balance and elegance despite its nearly 15 percent alcohol. If that number doesn't trouble you and you're a fan of pure cabernet flavor, the intense aroma of ripe cassis and blackberry will surely seduce you. This is a lovely wine that walks up to the edge of excess but doesn't cross the line. The oak is well measured and the tannins sweet and supple, making for a cabernet you could drink tonight or lay down for another few years. Rating: 91.

Migration 2006 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($32) — This is Goldeneye's second label and offers good value though it's clearly not in the same league as the top dogs at Goldeneye. This vintage was cool along the California coast and produced a number of somewhat grippy pinots that are slightly green at the edges. This Migration went off in that direction, with a slightly bitter finish. On the plus side there are attractive raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors and a root-cellar earthiness common with many high-class pinots. Rating: 87.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley ($23) — This relatively inexpensive cabernet offers more depth and complexity than the price might suggest, but that's typical of Dry Creek Vineyard, one of the best wineries for value in all of California. The '05 is lush through the mid-palate and delivers red-fruited flavors with a touch of earth and spice. It has good grip and should hold up in a good cellar for another seven to 10 years, which is more than can be said for most $20 cabernets. Rating: 87.

Lake Sonoma 2007 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($17) — This chardonnay delivers the signature RRV note of fresh lemon custard, and is well balanced, crisp and refreshing across the palate. There's a hint of minerality for interest, and a baked brioche nuance that is attractive, as is the price. Rating: 87.

Beckmen Vineyards 2006 Cuvee Le Bec, Santa Ynez Valley ($18) — Beckmen's stab at a classic southern Rhone blend isn't a bad effort, though I'd be downright enthusiastic if the Cuvee Le Bec displayed a bit more firmness and length. That said, the red-fruited aromas and flavors are appealing and juicy, and notes of anise and dried herbs strike the right note. This wine's all about the fruit, with the wood treatment a mere accent. Perfect for that tailgate barbecue on an autumn football weekend. Rating: 85.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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