BORDEAUX, France — I have just spent the first day of a brief visit to Bordeaux making a couple of stops in Fronsac, the forgotten appellation. The wines of Fronsac have a weak presence in the United States despite the fact that it was once among the most important terroirs of the Bordeaux region.

No one alive today in Fronsac can remember such a time, but it is in the written records and the claim has been handed down for generations, inspiration perhaps to rekindle the lost glory. The wines of the Medoc and even close neighbors such as Pomerol and Saint-Emilion long ago surpassed Fronsac in prominence.

Yet there is an awakening in the region, which is known for its robust, long-lived Merlot-based wines — usually with a small percentage of cabernet franc. Whether or not its handful of ambitious vintners can seize the moment is the question of the day. I had the chance to visit three chateaux — Mazeris, La Riviere and Richelieu — and it was enough to intrigue me, although far to brief to draw a definitive conclusion.

Fronsac is worth pursuing because the wines — at least some of them — show great potential and are far less expensive than the wines of their closest neighbors in Saint-Emilion and Pomeral.

At Richelieu, for example, I tasted exceptional wines from the 2003 and 2005 vintages. The 2005 Richelieu recently made wine critic Robert Parker's list of best values in the world for under $25. I don't usually cite other critic's evaluations, but the fact that Parker, whose expertise is most closely associated with Bordeaux, has discovered Richelieu could portend more interest in the wines of Fronsac in the near future. And it is an impressive wine.

The problem for consumers would be one of accessibility. French wines command less shelf space than ever in U.S. wine shops, and what space is devoted to the French usually is taken up quickly by Champagne, top-notch Burgundy, classified growths of Bordeaux and the smattering of wines from the Rhone Valley and the Loire Valley.

"Our wines cost as much to produce as the grand cru classe wines of Bordeaux, but our wines sell for three, four, fives times less," said Richelieu's Arjen Pen, who manages the chateau and makes the wine. "We feel we provide the value. But how do we get the word out?"

Richelieu has a U.S. importer but the wine is not widely distributed, a theme I heard repeated at Mazeris, which is in the U.S. market but sells only miniscule amounts of wine. Both are worth seeking out, for unlike many unfamiliar Bordeaux from off the beaten path, the wines of these chateaux have personality and character.

While at Richelieu I also had the opportunity to taste the 2005 Chateau Junayme, another wine of character, concentration and personality. Junayme is located in Canon-Fronsac, a small area within the Fronsac appellation and also little known inside the U.S.

"Fronsac is known for its powerful wines that need eight or 10 years of aging before they are ready to drink," said Pen. "And often in the past the wines were rustic. More and more wines are being made in a modern fashion. The growers are getting the grapes a bit riper and the tannins are softer. These wines will still age very well, but they have more finesse."

It won't be easy tacking down wines from Bordeaux's Fronsac region, but based on my limited sampling and the ratio of quality to price, my sense is they are well worth seeking out. And the more often you ask for Fronsac, the more likely you are to find it, for in the U.S. wine market supply always follows demand.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Pillar Box 2006 Shiraz Reserve, South Australia ($20) — Thick, rich and earthy, this is a style that is most readily identified with Aussie shiraz. It's layered and deep, with loads of spice, a hint of mocha and no small dose of power. If you like this upfront, rich style you'll love this wine at this relatively modest price. Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Duckhorn Vineyards 2004 Red Wine, Howell Mountain ($75) — Duckhorn's red Bordeaux-style blend from estate vineyards on Howell Mountain is something of a masterpiece, and it's easy to see why it is released a year later than the cabernets and merlots. This is a huge mouthful of wine, with impressive weight and chewy tannins that no doubt needed additional bottle age to mellow. It's a darkly fruited wine that exhibits flavors of cassis and blackberry, with hints of cedar, spice and a bit of forest floor. Youthful and fresh, it nevertheless has the backbone to improve in the cellar for another decade or more. Rating: 95.

Domaine Pierre Morey 2006 Meursault, France ($94) — Domaine Pierre Morey is as good a case as any for another look at the classification of vineyards in Burgundy. Its "village" Meursault is clearly a classy wine of premier cru quality, but without the official beknightment. Morey sources this wine from three family-owned vineyards — Les Chaumes, Les Forges and Les Pellans — that are farmed biodynamically. Pierre, the brilliant winemaker who also makes the wines at Domaine Leflaive, is devoted to natural winemaking and uses "native" yeasts to initiate fermentation and achieve chardonnay that is beautifully structured, showing flinty minerality on the nose, layers of tangerine and melon, with hints of pear and spice through a decadently long finish. You could easily cellar this wine for another decade or more. Rating: 94.

Wild Horse 2005 Pinot Noir "Cheval Sauvage", Santa Maria Valley ($65) — I couldn't get much nose off this latest release of Cheval Sauvage, so I suspect it might have been a bit dumb when I tasted it. The body and fruit on the palate were just fine however, in particular the silky mouthfeel that seems to be the signature of this particular pinot. A rather full-bodied, darkly fruited wine that shows notes of cassis, blackberry and a very deep, brooding shot of raspberry. Notes of earth and wood smoke contribute complexity, and the underlying firmness at the core of the sweet fleshy fruit suggest this vintage will benefit from additional cellar age. Rating: 93.

Morgan 2006 Pinot Noir "Tondre Grapefield", Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) — While not one of the more powerful Monterey pinots, most of which lean toward sweetness, Morgan's Tondre Grapefield is a stunner nonetheless. You could start with the expressive nose of ripe strawberry, as intense as you will find on any California pinot. There is a hint of spice, though the presence of wood and wood aromas is muted, so as not to distract from the gorgeous but delicate red-fruited flavors. Well balanced, with firm acid and unobtrusive tannins, this restrained pinot noir from Morgan is like a breath of fresh air — and a damn fine Pinot, to boot. Rating: 92.

Henry's Drive 2005 Shiraz Reserve, South Australia ($55) — Despite its power and weight, this reserve shiraz from Henry's Drive is pure silk in the mouth. It shows juicy red fruits with a pleasing hint of eucalyptus and spice, richness and density, sweet tannins and a lingering finish that doesn't have the heat you would expect from a wine with 15.7 percent alcohol. Well done for those who enjoy this ripe, rich, powerful style of shiraz. Rating: 92.

Henry's Drive 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia ($37) — Quite good for an Aussie cabernet, and more well balanced than this winery's super-ripe shiraz. Lovely red fruits dominate the front of the palate, and there is a note of mint and dried herbs that's less pronounced than it is in the Henry's shiraz. Tannins are firm but nicely integrated and the wood is well measured. Rating: 90.

Famiglia Bianchi 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentina ($18) — A pleasant whiff of cassis on the nose is the giveaway that this is a cabernet, and a well-made cabernet at that. The nose is lovely, but the palate is even better, delivering sweet red-fruit flavors, a rustic woodnote and slightly dusty tannins. Rating: 87.

Elsa Bianchi 2007 Malbec, Argentina ($9) — If you're looking for a light red in the mold of an Italian dolcetto or French beaujolais, this fruity malbec from Argentina could be the ticket. And the price is right. Good as a quaffer and easy to down with savory appetizers, I can see this malbec becoming a hit on the wine-bar circuit. Rating: 80.

Vino Dei Fratelli 2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy ($7) — Simple and rustic, this Montepulciano is truly a spaghetti wine, worthy of a place at the table with warm bread, a bowl of olives, marinated vegetables and bubbling pasta from the forno! Simple and fruity, it's meant to wash down a meal rather than challenge your vocabulary of wine descriptors. And it's priced to move by the case. Rating: 78.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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