It has recently come to the attention of some very astute readers that wine critics often disagree. Imagine that!

What raised a few eyebrows was the Wine Spectator's low-ball score on the 2005 Nickel & Nickel Stelling Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

I loved this wine and rated it 100 points. The Wine Spectator, a leading wine publication, apparently didn't share the love. So what's a wine enthusiast to do when confronted with conflicting evaluations?

Ah, well, the first thing is to shoot me an email and ask what's up with all that.

So inquires Esther J:

I am considering a wine club purchase for a Nickel & Nickel cabernet that I have never tasted, 2005 Martin Stelling Vineyard. While I am a firm believer in "drink what you love" and "everyone loves something different," I am perplexed when "experts" have wildly differing views on a specific bottle. You gave this wine a 100; Wine Spectator an 83. Any thoughts as to why?

As I told Esther in reply, it comes down to a matter of taste. I have been struck by the exceptional balance and finesse of all the 2005 cabernet sauvignons from Nickel & Nickel, and this is the style I can stand behind and get very excited about, although I try to take the broad view and rate highly well-made wines in styles I find less appealing.

On the matter of experts who disagree, consider this. If your doctor examined you and proclaimed you had less than six months to live, what would you do? Most likely seek a second opinion. Why? Because experts sometimes disagree.

I haven't wavered in my assessment of the Nickel & Nickel Stelling and am not swayed by the opinions of other critics. My evaluation and subsequent rating is a measure of my reaction to the wine. I loved it and still do.

What wine enthusiasts should do is find a wine critic whose recommendations suit them, rather than blindly follow a publication simply because it's large and has a long history.

In that vein, Jack O'Hara wrote:

We have enjoyed your articles over the years in The San Diego Union-Tribune. Your article last week was very timely as we were just leaving for Napa. We scheduled an appointment at Nickel & Nickel, which was very informative and one of the best tours we have taken, and ended up buying several bottles. Then I get home and pick up my Wine Spectator and they rate the wines 83 and 87 — the ones you rated 100 and 97. Something is wrong here and it's definitely the Wine Spectator. I also realize they have the same bad relationships with Chateau Montelana and Cain. I'm figuring if you don't kiss their patoot! You're out! I'm canceling my subscription to WS today. Keep up your excellent work! We love it!

I don't know about having to kiss anyone's patoot, but if that's what some readers think I believe it might be worth noting. More likely, the difference in the scores is a reflection of the preferences of the reviewers involved. Different strokes for different folks.

But I'm also of the opinion that the Wine Spectator has put the knock on some mighty fine wines over the years. The one I remember most was a Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard cabernet sauvignon that scored a low Spectator number because of the presence of the earthy, barnyard aroma commonly called "brett."

I bumped into the late Tom Shelton, president of Joseph Phelps at the time, at Vinexpo (the prestigious wine fair held every other summer in Bordeaux) some time after the wine had been dissed. It did have a bit of "brett" but hardly enough, in my view, to substantially discount the wine's other qualities.

But I'm one who doesn't mind subtle amounts of "brett." I've collected Bordeaux for three decades now and one of my favorites, the redoubtable Chateau Palmer, frequently exhibits the "brett" character. If you are a wine lover who believes the earthiness of Bordeaux is a complexity rather than a fault, you might want to avoid the Wine Spectator's California reviews that cite "brett."

If you absolutely believe "brett" is an unacceptable fault, ignore my comments when I praise such wines. The best advice I can give anyone who takes critics seriously is to find one you like and keep reading 'em until they disappoint you!

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Andeluna 2007 'Winemaker's Selection' Torrontes, Argentina ($13) — I would almost be content to simply smell this wine, breathing in the sweet aromas of white flower and honeysuckle and letting my imagination run. But I would miss the most important part, which is the pleasure of sipping a well-made Torrontes as an aperitif or with savory appetizers. For this is the quintessential aperitif — interesting and delicious, but not so serious that it becomes the topic of conversation among friends. It's all about conviviality. This one's a well-balanced beauty in need of a comfortable living room. Rating: 86.

TASTING NOTES

Freestone 2006 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($75) — For $75 you should expect an extraordinary wine. You wouldn't be disappointed. The '06 Freestone is everything California chardonnay could and should be if it were always planted in the right place, with the right clones, and a minimalist philosophy that emphasized the purity of exceptional fruit from outstanding terroir. Well, a boy can dream! The Freestone is a textbook in restraint, delicate and vibrant, with notes of lemon custard, brioche, a scintillating minerality and barely obvious oak. Remarkably, it is not texturally austere, offering an oily palate despite firm acidity and a crisp, long finish. Very impressive.

Rating: 96.

Freestone 2006 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($75) — Only the second release of Freestone pinot from this relatively new property owned by the renowned Joseph Phelps family of the Napa Valley, the '06 is a revelation of sorts. This is a refined, spicy pinot that exhibits the structure and minerality, as well as the silky tannin, of a premier or grand cru Burgundy from France's famed Cote d'Or. The stated alcohol of 14 percent is modest by current standards, and the elegance and finesse are evidence of this delicacy of body. Yet the fruit is vibrant, almost explosive, with a purity that is searing. Best of all, this is one of those rare California's Pinots that will continue to improve in the cellar for years to come. Rating: 94.

Ortman Family Vineyards 2006 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($50) — Known for much of his career as "Mister Chardonnay" Chuck Ortman has always had a little-known passion for pinot noir. While running the mammoth Meridian Vineyards, Ortman always played around with small lots of single-vineyard pinots that were stunningly good. On his own now, Ortman and his son have retained Chuck's philosophy of sun-kissed fruit-driven wines and this Fiddlestic pinot is no exception. It's fresh and alive with aromas of blackberry and strawberry, and minimal influence from oak. Rating: Rating: 91.

Kim Crawford 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($19) — Yet another stellar sauvignon from Kim Crawford. The '08 shows a classic Marlborough nose of gooseberry and mown grass, with pungent citrus on the palate and a layer of tropical fruit that emerges on the finish. Combined with a flinty minerality, it all adds up to an exceptional sauvignon. Rating: 91.

Silverado Vineyards 2006 Vineburg Chardonnay, Carneros ($30) — I have long thought of Silverrado as a chardonnay "house" despite the fact the winery also produces excellent cabernet and merlot. Chardonnay really put Silverado on the map a quarter-century ago and chardonnay is still what I think of when I pass Silverado on Highway 29 in the Stag's Leap area of the Napa Valley. The '06 Vineburg is beautifully balanced, with a freshness that is very appealing. This vintage shows a bit of the lemon creme character that is typical of chardonnay from the cool coastal areas of Napa and Sonoma, with good acidity. Rating: 89.

Wild Earth 2006 Pinot Noir, New Zealand ($30): This wine captured the trophy for best international Pinot at the International Wine Challenge in London, but I'm wondering what all the fuss was about unless the field was extremely weak. That's not meant to diss this up-and-coming new winery from New Zealand's Central Otago district, for it's '06 is certainly very solid, if not spectacular. I highly commend it, especially at this price point, but caution you not to expect La Tache or anything close. The Wild Earth offers impressive dark-fruit and floral aromas, lightly mingled with earthiness and minerality, but the tannins are still young and slightly green at this stage, though they don't show the unripe bitterness that I consider the kiss of death. When you take into account that Wild Earth's first vintage was 2004, and the modesty of its pricing, there is plenty to get excited about. I look forward to future efforts from this sharp new player in Kiwi pinot. Rating: 88.

Kunde 2007 Viognier 2007, Sonoma Valley ($24) — Kunde has had a mastery of viognier ever since it became a faddish cult wine in this country more than a decade ago. Viognier was an interesting complexity when added to Kunde's sauvignon blanc, and on its own it has been a solid performer through the years. Kunde was never one of those that pushed viognier to excessive ripeness levels, always maintaining a lovely balance between fruit, acid and the delicate aromatics that make a good viognier so attractive. So it is with the 2007, which offers aromas of fresh peach, honeysuckle and white flower, supported with good acidity for a full but firm mouthfeel and a long, clean finish. Rating: 88.

Sauvignon Republic 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Potter Valley ($18) — This is an unusual expression for a Sauvignon Republic wine, departing somewhat from the typical profile of pungent grassiness, tart citrus and scintillating minerality. This bottling from Potter Valley expresses itself more on the green apple, melon and tropical fruit side of the flavor spectrum, with an oily texture that reflects the riper growing conditions. It's a fine wine, and very well balanced — just different. Rating: 87.

Kim Crawford 2007 Rose, New Zealand ($13) — My admiration for the Kim Crawford wines is the result of years of truly fine vintages from this brilliant but eclectic Kiwi winemaker. Sauvignon has been his benchmark wine, but Crawford's talents run across the board. And now he's produced his first rose for export to the U.S. market, and I have to say it's wonderful. Not in the sense that I would give it an outrageous score or imply that it will rock your world. Not a chance. But it does what a good rose should, and that's be crisp, clean, refreshing and fun. Now I can tell you it's 100 percent juice from merlot grapes. Indeed, a white merlot. But it's dry and crisp, and the scent of fresh strawberries in summer makes it a delightful aperitif. Rating: 86.

Silverado Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay, Napa County ($23) — This is a solidly made Napa (take note it's Napa County as opposed to Napa Valley) chardonnay in what I think of as the emerging California style — meaning chardonnay made with more restraint. There is less new oak and only a small portion of the blend goes through the malolactic fermentation that imparts buttery texture and aroma. The result is a fresher, cleaner wine that provides more and better opportunities for food and wine matches — and it's a pretty decent cocktail wine (as in served at the cocktail hour) as well. Rating: 86.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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