It is accepted wisdom that the chateaux of Bordeaux have priced themselves out of the mainstream of American wine consumption. Without a doubt the "collectibles" have become prohibitively expensive.

Wines such as Chateau Cheval Blanc, for example. I dropped in on Cheval Blanc recently, on my way to the Jurade de Saint-Emilion, which was celebrating its 60th renewal with its traditional harvest proclamation. Cheval Blanc is one of only two Premier Grand Cru Classe properties in Saint-Emilion and is routinely given a level of respect equal to the great first growths of the medoc, such as Latour, Mouton and Lafite.

Winemaker Pierre Lurton was warm and charming as always, and the 2001 vintage he poured was an exquisite example of Cheval Blanc from a fine year. I can remember a time when I purchased Cheval Blanc by the case. I was particularly fond of the 1982 and '83, and the '88 wasn't too shabby, either, and a relative bargain compared to the hyped 1989 vintage.

These are remarkable wines all, but I confess I am no longer in the market for Cheval Blanc. I've spied bottles of the outstanding 2005 vintage on the Internet for as little as $600, but most often the price topped $800 or more. For the record, I coughed up what was then the handsome sum of $59 per bottle for the 1982 when I purchased it in 1984-85.

At $600 and more a bottle, I will content myself with those rare sips I enjoy on my occasional tasting forays into the region. Doesn't mean I've given up on good Bordeaux. There's plenty of that to go round for those willing to rummage around a bit or purchase wines over the Internet.

While visiting Saint-Emilion during the Jurade, I had ample opportunity to taste wines from less well-known chateaux, and found plenty of things to like in the $25-$45 range. Still not cheap, but certainly reasonable for wines that have the potential for long shelf life in my modest cellar.

Clos des Jacobins: Formerly owned by Bordeaux negociant Cordier, Jacobins has undergone a complete renovation since the 2002 vintage. A Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe chateau, Jacobins is now making stylish merlot-based wines that have character and guts; and based on my tastings of the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages I believe these wines also possess excellent aging potential.

Chateau de Pressac: This Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe estate changed hands 11 years ago and has enjoyed a renaissance under the new ownership. Jean-Francois Quenin is president of the Conseil des vins de Saint-Emilion and has had his eye on quality since purchasing the estate, replanting numerous hectares of vineyards and re-introducing Malbec to the property after an absence of more than 100 years.

Chateau Franc-Mayne: Under new ownership since 2005, Franc-Mayne is striving to regain its mojo and still has some work to do in that regard, but the potential is enormous for this Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe property. Visitors to the region may be interested to know the chateau has been renovated into a small hotel with breathtaking views of the vineyards, and it's only a mile or so from the medieval city of Saint-Emilion.

Chateau Mazeris: This is a small family-run estate located along the road less traveled in Canon Fronsac. The wines are somewhat rustic, but they do express their terroir in a very real way, and they're beautifully structured with a potential for improvement in the cellar for a decade or more. Best of all, you won't pay more than $30 for this wine if you can find it.

Chateau Beauregard: Situated in the heart of Pomerol, Beauregard nevertheless hasn't caught the wave that has driven the price of Pomerol through the ceiling. Even in exceptional vintages, such as 2005, it's about a $35 wine. For Pomerol from a well-known property, this is a veritable steal.

Chateau Bel-Air de Lalande de Pomerol: This property sits on the edge of Pomerol. One side of the road that runs alongside the estate is Pomerol, the other is Lalande de Pomerol. The wines are fleshier and more expressive in their youth than those of Pomerol, but for $20-$25 you can enjoy some very good Bordeaux that doesn't really need all that time in the wine cellar to soften the tannins and turn into something even remotely approachable.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Paul Dolan 2006 Zinfandel, Mendocino/Amador ($20) — There's something unusual going on here and I, for one, certainly hope it's a trend. Dolan's zinfandel has freshness and balance. How can that be? This is a zinfandel, after all. It's supposed to be fleshy, jammy and sweet, with enough alcohol to keep your candle lit for days? Not here, not this wine. It delivers beautiful red-fruited aromas and flavors, along with a smooth, sophisticated finish that soothes rather than burns on the back end. Wouldn't it be wonderful if other zinfandel producers could see the light? Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Clos du Val 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley ($95) — Despite the fact this cabernet has one of the lower stated alcohol levels (13.5 percent) for an A-list Napa Valley cabernet, the flavors and aromas speak of ripe black fruits and rich layers of flavor. Intense aromas of cassis and blackberry dominate, and there's a fair amount of wood spice on the nose, but that all part of the package with a big-time Napa cabernet. The woodnotes will recede with time as this wine comes together, for those who have the patience to wait. Rating: 93.

Paul Dolan 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino ($25) — Shows exceptional purity of fruit, with excellent concentration and depth. Made from organic grapes, the Dolan cabernet is a gem, particularly at this price. Ripe red fruits are layered and textured, supported by supple, sweet tannins and fresh acidity. Though the alcohol eclipses 14 percent, this wine is well balanced despite its obvious weight and power. The nose offers an inviting floral perfume, with hints of spice and well-measured oak. Perfect for grilled chops. Rating: 90.

Provenance Vineyards 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($20) — This is the classic Napa style that has evolved over the past 20 years, exhibiting ripe white peach and a zesty layer of citrus in the background. With excellent weight on the palate and persistence of flavor, this is a sauvignon to serve with oily fish such as salmon, or pastas in a cream sauce. Winemaker Tom Rinaldi (formerly at Duckhorn) has always had a deft hand with sauvignon and he makes that point here. Rating: 90.

Clos du Val 2006 Chardonnay Reserve 2006, Napa Valley ($42) — Your first clue that this is a reserve chardonnay is the strong whiff of wood — very expensive French wood would be my guess — that almost obliterates the fruit at first blush. But there is fruit there if you wait a few minutes, and what's there is quite good. The lovely chardonnay behind the oak possesses firm acidity that keeps the whole thing together, and the fruit itself shows a lovely lemon custard and pear profile that is classic. But the fruit, good as it might be, is delicate and simply can't handle this level of wood. It's a crying shame! Rating: 89.

Clos du Val 2005 Pinot Noir Reserve, Napa Valley ($46) — With an earthy nose and a somewhat stemmy firmness on the palate, Clos du Val's reserve pinot is hardly the typical California fruit bomb. It's still evolving, but for your immediate enjoyment there is a dollop of fresh strawberry on the front of the palate. On the nose there are aromas of forest floor, which mute the fruit to some extent. There's plenty of fruit, however, and it only needs time to come out from behind the wall of tannin. This pinot will benefit from another couple of years on the cork. Rating: 88.

Paul Dolan 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino County ($18) — This sauvignon from Dolan is fairly simply, but quite well balanced and refreshing. It delivers aromas of fresh grapefruit and pear, with lively acidity and a clean finish. It has enough character to stand up to oysters and steamed shellfish, but I prefer it as an aperitif or just as an old-fashioned quaffer. Rating: 86.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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