I was once very much a part of the conventional wisdom that held the belief that the vineyards of southwestern France, in a vast region known as the Languedoc, would never yield wines of character and personality.

I could not have been more wrong if I had predicted the Napa Valley would morph into a paradise for the production of pineapples.

The Languedoc has a long history of fine wine, although it must be said the region took a holiday from its heritage of superb winegrowing following the World War II. Most of the grapes from the region's grand old vineyards found their way to the cooperatives that sprang up after the war, and their quality was hit and misses.

That was followed by a rush to the lowlands — most of the region is rugged and mountainous — to produce cheap wines on a mass scale. These wines invariably carried the Vin de Pays d'Oc appellation and told the world, quite convincingly, that this was what the Languedoc was all about.

Au contraire! The Languedoc is sprinkled with smaller appellations, mostly in the hills, that have seen a renewed commitment to quality over the past decade or so.

And even in the dreaded area of the Vin de Pays d'Oc, there are some good things happening. Which brings me to my point. I have just enjoyed a wonderful Vin de Pays from Domaine de Nizas, the 100-acres-plus estate owned by John Goelet, an American of French origin who established the domain in 1998.

Goelet also owns Clos du Val in the Napa Valley and Taltarni in Australia. He and his main man, winemaker and visionary Bernard Portet, know a thing or two about great wines.

So I opened the Domaine de Nizas 2004 Reserve with a mix of curiosity and anticipation. It's a deeply colored blend of Petit Verdot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah that retails for about $35.

The price alone should raise an eyebrow considering it's a Vin de Pays. Ah, but it's well worth it. This is a richly layered red that offers hints of blackberry, cassis and licorice; plush, supple, ripe tannins; mouth-filling, juicy fruit; a note of dried herbs, and a long, lingering finish.

And now I know never to say never about the wines of the Vin de Pays d'Oc.

BEST BUY

J Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley ($20) – This often misunderstood grape variety — produced in a lighter, leaner, Italian style it could be called Pinot Grigio — is now among the emerging stars at J, which was once devoted almost exclusively to sparkling wine. J's 2007 Pinot Gris expresses many of the attributes found in the pinot gris of France's Alsace region, from the lush richness on the palate to the subtle aromas of honeysuckle and pear that are typical of this wine when produced in the French style. Balanced nicely with lively acidity that gives the fruit a juicy freshness, and showing a hint of oak that lends spice to the finish, the '07 J Pinot Gris is a superb food wine that will pair well with grilled scallops. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

St. Supery 2007 “Dollarhide” Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($35) – This single-vineyard sauvignon from St. Supery's Dollarhide Ranch will be a departure in style for fans who expect a slight hint of grassiness and the pungent aroma of grapefruit in their St Supery Sauvignons, characteristics that are abundant in the Napa Valley bottling. The Dollarhide grapes come in at a greater degree of ripeness and lose most of the herbal elements the winery's sauvignons are known for. Instead there is a lovely floral note on the nose and aromas of tropical fruit and yellow citrus, with a rounder, smoother palate and exceptional length. Not your everyday California Sauvignon, and the price reflects as much. Rating: 92.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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