Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Dear Robert: I read your column on chardonnay with some interest, because chardonnay is our favorite wine. However, I was confused by some of the terms used. For example, what is "buttery" versus "fruity"? Obviously, we are not even close to your level of sophistication in our wine drinking. We would never even buy a $45 bottle of wine, let alone drink quite a bit of it, but we do seem to know what we like. We just don't know what words to use to describe our tastes. Our longtime favorite chardonnay is Kendall-Jackson's Jackson Estates Grown, with an occasional bottle of their Grand Reserve thrown in for special occasions. We find the oakiness very pleasant, as opposed to some other wines we've tried, like Hess Monterey or Robert Mondavi Private Selection, which are a bit tart (fruity?) to our taste. On the other hand, we don't care for the "blander" whites, such as sauvignon blanc. I understand that drinking what you know you like is very important, but it would help us to experiment a bit and perhaps broaden our tastes if we knew the right buzzwords. Any ideas that might help? — Phil Turner

Dear Phil: I'm happy to take a stab at it. The term buttery is often used to describe a chardonnay that might remind you of buttered popcorn. At the risk of being too technical, I should explain the buttery aroma is achieved when the winemaker decides to induce a secondary fermentation in the barrel. The secondary fermentation, called malolactic fermentation, converts the naturally tart malic acid in the grape into softer lactic acid.

The texture of the wine is altered — from sharp and crisp to creamy — and the process imparts the aroma of melted butter.

A fruity chardonnay delivers the aromas of fresh fruits, generally pear, apple, lemon and melon. Generally speaking a somewhat tart chardonnay that exhibits aromas of citrus will have little or no malolactic fermentation. And sometimes all or part of the vinification will take place in stainless steel tanks rather than barrels.

Which style is better is a matter of personal preference. I am personally fond of chardonnays from Burgundy's Chablis district, the majority of which never see the inside of an oak barrel.

You are not alone in your taste for Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. The K-J winemakers are extremely skilled with the chardonnay grape and proprietor Jess Jackson owns some of the finest vineyards in California, from Mendocino County to Santa Barbara. But their secret is the creamy texture and barely perceptible sweetness on the finish that is the signature of K-J Chardonnay.

Dear Robert: I noticed in today's column that some award-winning wines are becoming more affordable. What do you see as the long-term impacts of the economic mess on wine prices? Will we someday be able to buy Mouton-Rothschild for $10 and Gruaud-Larose for $6 at Trader Joe's like I was back in 1974? — Don Wood

Dear Don: Don't hold your breath. I still remember loading up on the 1982 First Growths of Bordeaux at about $39 a bottle when I purchased "futures" en primeur.

And crying the blues when I had to pay $20 to $30 more per bottle for the same wines after they were released into the U.S. market two years later, or around 1985. Given today's prices, those were certifiable steals.

The top wines will continue to command top dollar. What will shrink is the definition of "top wine." California cult wines, collectible Bordeaux, premier and grand cru Burgundy, Barolo, Champagne and a few others will hold the line on price.

Everything else is coming down save the wines that already fit nicely into the bargain niche. Hurting most are high-end Napa Valley cabernets (in the $50-$125 range) that haven't quite attained cult status. These wines are often targeted almost exclusively at restaurant sales, and restaurants have seriously scaled back purchases of expensive wines that would have to be marked up on the wine list at $100 or more per bottle.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

BEST BUY

Rosemount 2005 Show Reserve "GSM", Australia ($25) — To the best of my knowledge Rosemount was the first, or at least one of the first, Aussie producers to work with the GSM — grenache, syrah and mourvedre — designation. It's been a huge hit over the years as a showcase for the grenache grape, which thrives in the McLaren Vale district of South Australia. The dominant characteristic of this wine is the intense red and blackberry fruit character, overlaid with notes of spice and wood smoke. It's rich (14.5 percent alcohol) and suave and a certain crowd-pleaser within its price range. Rating: 89.

TASTING NOTES

Talbott 2006 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands ($43) — Talbott's Sleepy Hollow Vineyard should be declared a national treasure, wine division. The chardonnay off this remarkable piece of land in the Santa Lucia Highlands is one of a kind in California, always rich and oily, with weight and power on the palate, aromas of pear and honey, and superb acidity that keeps this huge wine in perfect balance. If ever there was a chardonnay you might serve with meat, Talbott's Sleepy Holly Vineyard Chardonnay would get my vote! Rating: 94.

Rosemount 2004 "Balmoral" Syrah, Australia ($45) — It's a treat to come across an Aussie syrah that's beginning to exhibit mature aromas, although the primary fruit continues very much alive. Balmoral is Rosemount's benchmark red and it seldom disappoints. The '04 is a suave example, with a silky palate, genuine dark-fruited complexity and exceptional length, with a warm, satisfying finish. There is a smoky note to this vintage, as well as hints of dried herbs, spice and black olive. Rating: 93.

Bradford Mountain 2005 Grist Vineyard Syrah, Dry Creek Valley ($34) — Too bad there is so little of Bradford Mountain's Grist Vineyard Syrah available, because at the price it's quite remarkable. One of the most beautiful vineyard sites in the warm Dry Creek Valley, Grist benefits from superb sun exposure during the day, followed by cool nights. The wines off this property are always ripe and powerful, yet fresh on the palate because of the huge temperature swing between day and night. Layers of black cherry and raspberry fruit are complemented by notes of spice and wood smoke, with excellent balance between fruit, alcohol, wood and acidity. And it's drinking beautifully now. Only 500 cases produced. Rating: 91.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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